For anyone wary of bread-making, focaccia is a safe place to start. It’s made in one bowl, entirely by hand — no stand mixer required. And when I say “by hand,” I mean literally. Focaccia dough is forgiving, not temperamental, so you can feel confident you’ll end up with something pillowy yet crisp. Since I’ve pretty much renamed fall “pumpkin spice season,” I decided to embrace the concept and adapt one of my favorite recipes to fit the moment. The result is a true treat. If you’d like to serve this focaccia in the morning, make the dough the night before. After completing the stretch-and-folds, cover it with plastic wrap and let it rise overnight in the refrigerator. The next day, pick up where you left off.

Ingredients

For the Dough
350 grams lukewarm water (1 1/2 cups)
1 1/2 teaspoons yeast
1 1/2 teaspoons honey
200 grams pumpkin purée (about 3/4 cup)
500 grams bread flour (3 3/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon)
2 teaspoons pumpkin spice (see note)
10 grams kosher salt
1/4 cup avocado oil (or another neutral oil)
2 tablespoons ghee, melted (optional, see instructions)

For the Filling/Topping
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
100 grams dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons pumpkin spice
Pinch of kosher salt

For the Glaze
90 grams (3/4 cup)
powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon cream or milk
3 tablespoons maple syrup
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preparation

In a large bowl, stir together the lukewarm water, honey, and yeast. Let sit for about 10 minutes, until the surface looks foamy. Mix in the pumpkin purée, then add the flour, pumpkin spice, and salt. Stir until no dry spots remain, then switch to your hands when it gets too heavy.

Do a few rounds of “stretch and folds” to help bring the dough together and develop the gluten. To do this: reach to the bottom of the dough, pull a section up, and fold it over the top. Rotate the bowl a quarter turn and repeat until you’ve gone all the way around. Cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap and let rest for 10 minutes. (Who knew it was tired?)

Wet your hands and repeat the stretch-and-fold process, then let it rest for another 10 minutes. Do one final round of stretch and folds. Scrape down the bowl, drizzle in 2 tablespoons of avocado oil (or another neutral oil), and turn the dough so it’s all coated. Olive oil also works if you prefer its flavor. Cover and let the dough rise until it has doubled in size, about 1–2 hours.

While the dough rises, prepare the filling. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Stir in the brown sugar, pumpkin spice, and a pinch of salt. Cook just until the sugar melts, then remove from the heat and set aside. You can also make the glaze now by whisking together the powdered sugar, cinnamon, cream or milk, maple syrup, and vanilla until smooth.

Preheat the oven to 425°F and position racks on both the top and bottom levels.

Grease a 9-by-13-inch metal pan with 2 tablespoons avocado oil, or use melted ghee for a richer flavor. Transfer the dough to the pan and stretch it out as best you can. Spread half the cooled filling evenly over the surface, then fold the dough in thirds like a letter. Flip it over so the smooth side is on top, rotate 90 degrees, and stretch it back out to fill the pan. If it resists, cover and let rest for 10 minutes before trying again. Once stretched, let rise again for 30–60 minutes, until bubbly and jiggly when shaken.

Rub a little oil on your hands and dimple the dough all over with your fingertips. Spread the remaining filling across the top and lightly mist with water — this helps it crisp in the oven. Bake on the bottom rack for about 20 minutes until golden, then move to the top rack for another 3–5 minutes, until golden. Remove from the oven, drizzle with the glaze, and serve warm.

Note: To make your own pumpkin spice, combine 2 teaspoons ground ginger, 2 teaspoons cinnamon, 1 teaspoon cloves, 1 teaspoon allspice, and 1/2 teaspoon cardamom.